Albania: A Blend of Nature, History, and Culture
As we drove the road from Tirana by night to Himarë, we felt the changes in elevation as we got closer to the southern part of Albania. Following the curves and windy roads at the Llogara Pass, we could only imagine a palette of green, olive trees surrounding us, with mountains that extended down to the Ionian Sea.
But it’s not only the peaks of the Albanian Alps and gorgeous beaches that complement each other; the country’s past and present also intertwine seamlessly. This was one of the reasons that drew our curiosity to visit Albania.
For much of the 20th century, Albania was under a strict communist regime led by Enver Hoxha, which isolated the country from the Western world. With the fall of communism in the early 1990s, the transition to a democratic system and a market economy began.
Albania’s efforts to join international organizations, such as NATO and the European Union, have laid the foundations for integrating it into the broader European community. These developments, along with substantial progress in modernizing its infrastructure, improving its political stability, and highlighting its cultural and natural attractions, are turning Albania into a desirable tourist destination. Today, tourism is a growing sector driving economic development.
Experiencing Albanian Hospitality
What struck me most was the warmth and hospitality we experienced throughout our stay, particularly in the South. In Albania, hospitality is considered a virtue deeply ingrained in the culture. This warm and generous hospitality tradition, known as “Besa,” reflects the Albanians’ strong sense of respect, honor, and responsibility toward guests.
Even though Albania feels already like part of the EU, I kept forgetting that it was not, and planning our trip required a few more practical considerations about phone service, money exchange, and driver’s licenses. Because of that, we had to buy a SIM card at Tirana Airport and used the moment to ask the young gentleman in the shop how to say “thank you” in Albanian.
Learning the basics, or at least “Hello” and “Thank you” in the language of the country you visit, has become a joyful ritual for us. This little effort in integrating into your visit destination breaks first cultural barriers and shows interest in the local language and appreciation for the culture and people.
For the next two days, we managed to put a smile on people’s faces as we practiced “Falemenderit” in restaurants, shops, and cafes.
Uncovering The Greek Influence
As we walked along the promenade of Himarë, I wondered who was running the countless establishments. Knowing the situation in Spain and Portugal, where many businesses are run by foreigners, I asked myself if that scenario also applied in Albania.
Preferring restaurants away from the touristy promenade, we found a charming, cozy terrace around the corner. While waiting for delicious fresh fish, tzatziki, and boquerones, I asked the young waiter, who turned out to be the owner of the family-run place, whether many of the restaurants on the promenade were run by foreigners.
“You mean because of the Greek minority?” he asked. Due to my ignorance, I didn’t understand the significance of the comment, so I explained that in Portugal, many businesses are run by Germans or British instead of locals.
In Himarë, many restaurants are family-owned, and it seems like the younger generation is slowly taking over as their parents age.
Only the next day did it all make sense. Buying water in a shop across from our apartment, my partner said “Falemenderit” at the counter. The cashier, who was friendly but determined, said, “Here we say ‘Efharisto.’ This is a Greek shop.” Exiting the shop, we saw the Greek flag decorating the roof.
Back at home, I researched and finally understood that Himarë is not just another charming coastal town, but a stage for the conflicting relationship between Albania and Greece, with deep historical roots.
It makes sense that Himarë’s proximity to Greece makes it a strategically important location. Historically, control over Himarë and the surrounding areas has shifted in different periods, contributing to both countries having historical and cultural ties to the region.
This mix makes Himarë a rich, multi-ethnic town. Many of the service staff we talked to were born in Greece to Albanian parents who were migrant workers. The young waiter we talked to first is still studying in Greece while spending the summers running the family restaurant.
Until today, the ties of both cultural traditions are strong, but they also create tensions between the Greek minority and the Albanian majority.
Exploring Himarë: Beyond the Tourist Trail
In the following days, we learned in several conversations that the present conflict primarily revolves around minority rights, property disputes, and cultural recognition of the significant Greek community in Himarë.
While recent years have seen efforts to improve relations between Albania and Greece, partly driven by Albania’s aspirations to join the European Union, local dynamics in Himarë can still reflect underlying tensions.
Even with the EU encouraging better treatment of minorities and fostering cooperation, you can still feel the frustration in some people of the Greek minority. At lunch in a Greek restaurant, the waitress complained about the Albanian government and demanded greater recognition of her right to cultural expression.
We also met Albanians who felt strongly about their Albanian nationality and held the opinion that Himarë was in Albania; therefore, they expected more integration efforts from the Greek side.
On the southern coast, we encountered nationalist sentiments on both sides.
Despite occasional escalations, such as in 2023 when Himarë’s ethnic Greek mayor, Fredi Beleri, was accused of buying votes, leading to outrage and demonstrations, a local explained that the conflict rarely translates into relationships between neighbors and that the majority of Himarë’s people live in daily peaceful multicultural coexistence.
Building Bridges Through Small Gestures
As a tourist, understanding the social dynamics between the Greek and Albanian communities is crucial for anyone visiting Himarë or Albania in general.
Being aware of the historical context of the Greek-Albanian relationship allowed us to be sensitive and curious in conversations with locals, leading to more authentic and deeper interactions. Learning a few basic phrases in both languages shows respect and appreciation for the region’s diverse cultural heritage.
On our last morning, I visited the beach one last time. Overlooking the Ionian Sea, I thought about the layers of history and identity we had encountered in Himarë. As I felt the warmth on my skin, I was grateful for the stories shared with us and for once again having the privilege to gain a greater understanding of our diverse world. This is the magic of travel.
As you plan your travels to Albania or any other destination with a complex social landscape, take the time to learn about the local dynamics. Ask questions, listen to stories, and approach each interaction with respect and curiosity.
For the rest of our stay in Himarë, if we were unsure, we asked the person we talked to which language they preferred. While the conversations were in English, we always ended with “Falemenderit” or “Efharisto.”
