Why Albania Is A Food Lover’s Paradise
Where to go for an unexpected holiday in Europe? As most of my one-week trips are family visits to Spain, I was particularly excited to visit a new country this year. Having a deep love for Mediterranean countries, Albania, with its wild and remote mountains, and smooth, stony beaches, has been on my travel list for a long time. The Mediterranean cuisine, cultural richness, stunning beaches, and crystal-clear turquoise waters make it an irresistible place to visit. For someone like me, who often rushes through meals at work, Albania was the perfect escape from my daily oats in the Swiss Alps.
Albanian cuisine is a treasure of flavors and culinary traditions, making it a fantastic food destination. Influenced by the local environment, the diverse diet varies from region to region. While many traditional dishes in the North and Central areas are heavily meat-based, the Mediterranean climate supports the growth of various vegetables, fruits (like citrus), herbs, and high-quality olive oil production. In the coastal South, Albanians are known for their passion for seafood, with a touch of Greek influence.
As seafood enthusiasts, our stay in Himare was the right choice for tracking down the best seafood restaurants on the Albanian Riviera. For a week, we ate like queens and explored as many different cafes and restaurants as our bellies would allow. The saying “love goes through the stomach” couldn’t be more accurate here. With every meal, I fell more in love with Albania. Some dishes stood out more than others, but we enjoyed every bite to the fullest.
The Heart Of Albanian Hospitality
However, our time in Himare was about more than just food. The trip allowed us to experience and learn from Albanian hospitality. Every interaction, from business owners to waiters, was filled with kindness and openness, building a connection with each meal. The conversations, even if in broken English, connected us and opened up a small window to Albania’s communist history, its political tensions, social struggles, and the personal stories of the people.
With the tourism industry still emerging, Albania might remind you of Spain 20-30 years ago. Many Albanians are still excited and enthusisastic to welcome visitors. Most hospitality businesses are run by families and locals. Therefore, the growth of tourism could support the local economy and turn Albania into a regenerative travel destination. however, this requires that future development decisions are made wisely and with the locals in mind.
Cultural Traditions And Kindness
The warm hospitality of Albanians isn’t by chance; it’s a big part of their cultural traditions of kindness, generosity, and respect for guests. At the heart of Albanian culture is “Besa,” which means “word of honor” or “promise.” This principle means Albanians are committed to keeping their word and looking after others, especially their guests. A powerful example of this was during World War II when Albanians risked their lives to shelter and protect Jewish refugees.
Due to the diverse landscapes, cultural characteristics, and culinary differences Albania is the perfect road trip destination. For this trip, however, we were looking for a place to settle near the beach – restaurants, and bars within walking distance to relax and not rush through day plans.
We chose Himare over Saranda because it is less touristy, offers a quieter yet lively nightlife, and felt like it has a more authentic Albanian charm. Since it is a seasonal destination, Himare’s beaches were still empty. Many locations just opened up and seasonal workers from Tirana and nearby towns began their busy summer jobs.
From the best mussels in town to cute taverns and stunning views, every place had unique features, making our stay one of the most relaxing and joyful one-week holidays I have ever had.
The Best Restaurants In Himare
KOLAGI: BEST RESTAURANT FOR A ROMANTIC DINNER
Recommend by local host, we visit Kolagi on our first night, after a long travel day. Luckily the kitchen is still open around 10pm when we finally arrive at our apartment at Potam Beach. From there, Kolagi is just a 2-minute walk away.
The restaurant´s terrace, tucked away between stone walls, sets a romantic dinner ambience with Italian-style tablecloths and abundant flowers. Our waiter, G, greets us with a shot of Raki, Albania’s national spirit. “My grandmother drinks this every morning for breakfast,” he says with a grin. True or not, G wins us over with his warm introduction to Albanian traditions.
We start our dinner with a crispy bruschetta, then move on to perfectly cooked seafood linguine and shrimp pasta, paired with Albanian white wine. Everything is delicious, but the seafood linguine definitely stands out.
On our last night, we return to Kolagi to indulge in seafood linguine one more time and to try the Himare Salad, made with fresh olives and oranges from their garden. The Himare Salad, featured on many restaurant menus, is a simple yet flavorful dish that highlights the fresh, local ingredients that make Albanian cuisine special. Saying goodbye to G, we round up our culinary journey and leave full of fond memories.
FURRE BUKE HIMARA: BEST COFFEE IN TOWN
On our first morning, we wander into the heart of Himare in search of a good (vegan) cappuccino. Most of the restaurants, cafes, and bars sit along the promenade, but we keep walking. We are hoping to find a less touristy spot and like always, patience and a love for exploring do pay off.
Just behind the promenade, on a parallel road, we stumble upon a small local bakery called Furre Buke Himara. It’s a must-visit for all coffee enthusiasts. Welcomed by a modern, minimalist atmosphere, ideal for a laid-back morning, we enjoy a delicious burek for breakfast. This bakery impresses visitors with its selection of pastries, including traditional foods like baklava, homemade tarts, a variety of bread and more. They also offer almond milk, a significant advantage for those who avoid cow’s milk, making them stand out from the other places in town.
BUTTERFLY CAFÉ: SCENIC VIEWS AND FRAPPUCCINOS
When exploring the castle and old town of Himare, don’t miss the cute Butterfly Cafe. Although driving to the castle’s parking area is an option, we highly recommend the scenic 40-minute walk from the new center uphill. This route passes along the cemetery; I always think graveyards say a lot about how we honour the death.
Friends recommended the Butterfly Café, and after our mini hike, we enjoy sipping Frappuccinos while soaking in the sea views. The café is a charming, family-run spot managed by a lovely couple. The owners previously operated a restaurant in Himare Center but have now relocated their new venture closer to home. If you visit, be sure to engage kindly with your hosts—small family businesses like this one thrive on personal connections.
Many businesses in Himare are family-owned, and it’s a joy to chat with the owners and hear their stories. However, remember that their capacity to accommodate tourists might be limited. Albania is still developing its tourism sector, and while most locals appreciate visitors, building a sustainable tourism future remains a significant challenge.
HOMEMADE GOODS: AUTHENTIC LOCAL SOUVENIERS
As we return to the heart of Himare, we discover a modest little shop filled with authentic local treasures. The proud owner, eyes twinkling with enthusiasm, eagerly shares with us the stories behind each item, all crafted by his wife with dedication and care.
Every product is a gift from their garden – from rich, homemade olive oil and tasty marmalade to freshly dried herbs. We cannot resist picking up a bottle of sage lemon tea syrup, perfect for mixing with cold water to create a refreshing drink.
This quaint shop provides a delightful meld of tradition and authenticity, offering perfect gifts for yourself, friends, and family.
LUNCH AT MERCUR MERCURI: BEST FAMILY OWNED RESTAURANT IN THE CENTER
Mercur Mercuri, just down the street from the bakery, invites you in with its oriental decorative and secluded terrace. This, in all senses, tasteful, family-run restaurant is managed by the son, who serves us during our visit. Like many Albanians we meet, he was born in Greece while his parents were guest workers in the neighbouring country. Now, he studies economics in Greece and splits his time between there and Himare.
We pick Mercur Mercuri after seeing it recommended in several blogs, and we’re happy to add our own praise. Away from the busy promenade, it offers a wonderful mix of excellent food, warm hospitality, and a peaceful atmosphere.
TAVERNA VELCO: BEST ATMOSPHERE AND SEAFOOD PLATE
Located in Himara, just 250 meters from Potam Beach, Hotel Velco BB features an on-site restaurant and bar. We visit in May, just before the crowded summer season begins. Despite the trend of tourists arriving earlier each year, the charm of these early months remains undeniable.
Visiting during the low season means some locations might still be closed or just starting to open. At Taverna Velco, the menu is still reduced to cut down on waste, so a few things we want are not yet available. Instead, we take our waiter’s advice and are really amazed.
We enjoy a seafood grill mix, tzatziki, and a delectable grilled vegetable plate with eggplant and zucchini. It is absolutely fantastic. I love the serene garden atmosphere, and once again, we are enchanted by the savory food and engaging service.
CIBO MARE E TERRA: BEST MUSSLES IN TOWN
The following evening, we dine at Cibo Mare E Terra in search of more seafood. Here, we find the best mussels and a tasty beetroot risotto, which is definitely something else. However, it is undeniably the priciest restaurant we visit. Unlike the cozy and familiar ambiance of the other places, this restaurant transmitted an air of elegance, making it a great choice for a more fancy night out.
SOREN: FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN TOWN
Another unique spot at Potam Beach is restaurant Soren. It offers a peaceful setting with breathtaking sea and sunset views, for all those looking for a relaxed and charming vibe. But don’t be surprised if they have football games running on TV.
Soren is run by the talented Vjonis Alushaj, a passionate chef you might recognize from Hell’s Kitchen Albania. Since opening in 2022, it has been winning over hearts and taste buds. You absolutely must try the Zucchini Seafood Linguine—it’s a favorite.
For a dining experience with delicious food, fair prices, and warm, friendly service, Soren is a must-visit. Trust me – you won’t be disappointed.
ELEA: GREEK CUISINE WITH A VIEW
Perched atop a hill 4 km from the city center, Elea is beautiful family-owned guesthouse and restaurant. Nestled in a tranquil neighborhood surrounded by wild landscapes and friendly farm animals, Elea stands out with its exclusive setting and marvelous views.
Though it requires a car or a 40-minute walk from the city center, the journey is well worth it. Once at Elea, you’ll taste authentic Greek cuisine, such as lamb dishes, traditional moussaka, and refreshing Greek salads. Don’t forget to order their signature tiramisu.
The mesmerizing panorama of Himare and the sea makes it an idyllic spot for a peaceful lunch with spectacular views.
